13 Years Manufacturer rattan stainless corner sectional set 996 for Irish Manufacturers

13 Years Manufacturer
 rattan stainless corner sectional set 996 for Irish Manufacturers


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    11 months to install on the weekends and evenings after work.
    all squeezed into a 12 minute mostly time lapse video.

    Some further info for those interested…
    Tiles and most materials are from Hornbach (German DIY store). Sauna and benches made of cedar from Mega Sauna.

    When we moved to a new house in 2014, I always had the intention to install a sauna.
    The first detail was to ensure the designated room provided access to a waste pipe and heating / water feed. I could see evidence of a waste pipe running down the wall and there were hot water and central heating pipes running across the ceiling.
    I think many free standing houses have a waste pipe on two sides of the house.

    So with a leap of faith, I started piecing together the wet room and sauna structure assuming that I would be able to find a plumber who would agree to connect the radiator, toilet and shower at a later time. You may want to install the electric yourself, but of course you will most likely need a qualified electrician to connect the Sauna oven cable to the fuse box (this is what I did).
    I wanted a walk-in shower (bodengleiche dusche), but you need a 2% decline in the pipe (20mm for 1m) from the shower drain to the waste pipe which meant raising the floor level for the shower (couldn’t lower the waste pipe connection further).
    Another early consideration when using dry/false walls, is to ensure re-enforcing the walls where needed. This means in particular the radiator and the glass shower wall. The sink and toilet are. mounted on steel frames that you buy and fit between the uprights of the dry wall frame. However both required further securing to the wall behind to withstand the weight of the toilet and in this case, the heavy wash basin cabinet that we selected.
    With a wall mounted toilet, someone gave me a good tip, which is to ensure the toilet frame that sits behind the plaster board (gips platter) is very well secured at the bottom. This prevents movement of the frame with time. I secured the frame with additional metal plates screwed to the floor. The top of the frame is also secured behind with thick pieces of wood screwed direct to the wall.
    Another decision that worked well for this project was to place the door of the sauna inside the shower. Not intuitive perhaps, but makes sense and works well now in operation. It saves valuable space in the rest of the room where we can now use the space for the lounger chairs instead of the sauna door.

    A few other tips spurned from the experience:

    Sauna install:
    - you can use pretty much whatever material you like for the outside of the sauna. I used a combo of tile (in the shower) and wood panels for the rest.
    - The extractor fan is needed is a basement wet room. Drilling the hole in the glass for the fan would have been more of a success in this case if the wood template used would have been thinner. the drill bit got snagged in the depth of the wood and this caused the crack.
    - Typically they say you need 10cm space between the wall and the outside of the sauna box. For space reasons I had only 4 to 5cm. This is enough to allow air to circulate.

    Wet room install:
    - I decided against heavy plaster board for the ceiling and went for panels instead. Most panels seems to be marked ok for a wet room.
    - I had so little free height in the ceiling (due to low pipes) I didn’t use two sections of wood slats for the roof as usually suggested (that being a set attached to the hangers (screwed to the ceiling) directly in rows and a 2nd section of lats perpendicularly attached to those lats. So I had only the first section as you can see in the video and this worked ok. Nailing the panel connector things into the suspended rows of lats was a bit more difficult, but it works. Get a cheap nailing tool that holds the nails whilst you wack them into the connectors – almost mandatory I would say.
    - for the shower drain, keep in mind that it should have a water swallowing rate that exceeds the max shower flow rate – especially for high flow rate showers like this one. This can mean 5cm pipe instead of 4cm.
    - For the tiling on the floor I cut them to size and laid them all out first before mixing any tile cement. For the walls this isn’t possible. Tip for the walls therefore is to try to consider where the seems of the tiles will be with respect to the toilet flush and shower fixtures. I wish I had ensured a central seam behind the toilet and running through the shower fixtures. This may mean using half tiles if they’re a larger size (mine are 60×30).

    This company has the idea of "better quality, lower processing costs, prices are more reasonable", so they have competitive product quality and price, that's the main reason we chose to cooperate.
    5 Stars By Jean from Canada - 2015.06.19 10:42
    It can be said that this is a best producer we encountered in China in this industry, we feel lucky to work with so excellent manufacturer.
    5 Stars By Mamie from Grenada - 2016.09.26 12:12

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